Wednesday 23 October 2019

Day 17 - amazing Flagstaff, Arizona

I honestly thought I would sleep like the dead last night, but it wasn’t to be. Up at sparrow’s, so I got myself packed, checked out and made my way to Tourist Home Cafe - recommended to me by Jeremy. Again, it pays to ask a local to get the best places to eat.  His recommendation did not disappoint. Traditional Eggs Benedict with a side of fruit salad (pineapple, strawberry, banana).  I honestly did not think that pineapple would be any good but it was almost as good as the best pineapple I’ve eaten at home.  The eggs were great too! Really friendly staff who loves to chat with an Aussie.

That reminds me of two phrases that my hiking buddies liked.  Jeremy loved that I referred to the composting toilet as a Long Drop and everyone was talking about Snowbirds - which I realised is similar to our Grey Nomads.  Not exactly interchangeable but close enough!  

Next stop, Meteor Crater - about 30 miles out of town and the site of a verified meteor impact. Tour guide was part Navejo and part Hopi and he was so entertaining with his commentary.  Who knew that geology could be so interesting and fun.  The impact of the meteor absolutely pulverised it - vaporising it into flour-like particles.  Our guide ran magnets through the dirt surrounding the impact site and showed us the tiny iron filings picked up by the magnets.

The crater is about a mile wide, 550 feet deep and creates a weather inversion, which means it traps the hot air in the crater rather than it rising to be replaced by cold air.  The phenomena is so deadly that they no longer allow people down into the crater as the only rescue chopper that can get through the weather is military based at a cost of $85k per rescue (payable by the evacuee of course).

The desert is beautiful all round the crater - relatively flat land all as far as the eye can see - at least to the mountains in the distance.  Our guide hunts so many animals in the area - including grey wolves, elk, mule deer and so many other animals I can’t remember them all.

Next stop, Walnut Canyon and a wonderful telling of the Sinagua (no-water) people.  They actually lived on the cliffs in the canyon, and were masters at catching, collecting and storing water during the three months of winter when snow is falling, and sustaining with their farming during the next nine months of drought.  They often had two rooms - one for summer and one for winter, where they alternatively stayed cool or warm as the case may be.

Finally off to the Sunset Crater National Monument, where you can see the lava tubes created from the fissures that erupted from the volcano.  There is something very primitively beautiful about those scenes and again, I learned so much about the geology of the area.

My only disappointment today has been a lack of mobility, so I was only able to do the easy walks at each site. My knees are on strike as far as stairs are concerned, so I had to take the accessible options each time. Still saw everything I could hope too, but would love to have hiked to the top of the crater to see everything from the top.  Not to worry - I will add it to the Route 66 list for our big tour across the US.

Speaking of 66 - managed to cruise along a whole section of it today and got a little excited at the thought of following the Mother Road.  So many things to see and do.

Anyways, after returning the car I explored a bit more of downtown Flagstaff (sorry Phoenix, you’re not my favourite any more) and am now waiting at the Amtrak for my overnight train to LA.  This is an experience and a half.  Let’s just say that I am a strange magnet - every weirdo catching the train wants to talk to the Aussie girl.  Goodness help me - I hope I get some sleep tonight!









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