The first of those was a charming little town called Arcade. While there is an albergue in town, I think it is probably one of those places that people pass through but perhaps don’t stop in, which is a shame because it is a pretty town.
Early for check-in so after a Lomo (seasoned pork) bocata for lunch, I took myself off to explore the town. The bridge out of Arcade that pilgrims take was built during the medieval period and that of course needed to be seen.
It’s a single-lane bridge with just enough room for a car to squeeze past walkers - but of course some pilgrims are absolutely unaware of everything around them, so as a car approached to pass, I slowed to ensure I could safely walk as they went by me. The walker behind me promptly stepped into the middle of the road to take photos and proceeded to block traffic! The drivers here are much more patient than at home and didn’t even beep her - they merely waited and then drove by once she was done. I really hope she never visits Australia because someone will burst that little ignorant bubble for her in the worst of ways!
Our apartment for the night is a gorgeous newish build - with an elevator - yes an elevator (that’s how you recognise the new build!). It has been set up with bread and condiments and cereal and milk and coffee, all those things that make it feel like home for a night.
Next stop - Pontevedra and the 8 minute train ride was worth it just for the view. Pontevedra is another city with medieval roots and after arriving at my hotel and practising my Spanish (yo tengo una reserva para esta noche. Puedo dejar mi mochila aquí hasta check-in) I dropped my bag and began a long exploration of the city.
There are so many churches in these towns and cities. I think I visited five yesterday, all resplendent in their own way. I was also lucky enough to be in town for the opening hours of the ruins of the San Domingo church and monastery which dates back to the 14th century. While most people came in, looked and left, in all my nerdish glory I read every sign and explored every nook and cranny of the site, learning a little more Spanish history as I went.
From there I visited a number of churches before finding the Puente Burgos with its scallop shell markings showing pilgrims the way out of the city. A little note on Google then suggested a side quest - the Illa de Esculturas - the Isle of Sculptures - a 70000 square metre park that has a sculpture trail set up with sculpture by 12 artists. Accepting the side quest means I hit a 15km mark for walking today - so although I’m not walking the Camino routes, I am still hitting step goals in the cities I’m visiting. I think Arcade was my lowest count - I only did 12000 steps which is about 9kish I think for me.
After the sculpture walk I settled into a little panadería for a bocadillo (baguette) and a hot chocolate. Here’s what was in the pre-made roll - ham, cheese, lettuce, tuna and boiled egg - how’s that for a protein filled roll. Weird combo but surprisingly flavourful. And the hot chocolate - like a thick chocolate syrup - mmmm-mmmm.
Full and a little tired I checked into my hotel room - very modest by yesterday’s standard - and had a quick freshen up before meeting my travel buddy for drinks and a dinner of curry at a local restaurant.
Tomorrow is due to be a rest day and while I was originally planning a day trip to A Coruńa, I think it might just as easily be a sleep in, lazy brunch and sitting in the park with a book. After all, I am on holiday!
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