It’s 10.48am and I’ve just finished a 6km hike out to a waterfall outside of Caldas De Reís. I’m sitting in the Botanical Gardens, beside the slow-flowing Rio Umia. The sky is blue overhead, there is a gentle breeze cooling me down after my walk and I’ve only been in town for two and a half hours. There is a multitude of birdsong and many locals taking their daily constitutionals. The only disturbing thing in this whole scene is the lingering of cigarette smoke because I swear that everyone smokes in this damn country!
My rest day in Pontevedra was truly a day of rest with just under 10k in the legs. I started the day quietly writing yesterday’s blog in the local park, then decided to walk across a number of bridges in the town (there are plenty) and visit a local shopping centre for some supplies (translation I went shopping and bought empanadas at the local bakery) and then hit a few more bridges.
Back to the hotel after lunch for a rest (and a sneaky nap), and before you know it I was walking to Burger King for dinner. Yep, it was a night for Western comfort food, and while the burgers were familiar, the fries, and dessert was not - but always nice to try a different country’s take on things.
Woken early by inconsiderate pilgrims dropping their crap and making a general racket chattering and packing, so I figured I’d hop the early bus and find a little more out of the way - although because we are staying at a private home, there’s no drop off of gear, so everything must come with me.
After a bit of a “not sure if this is a comedy or a drama” moment trying to find my bus stop, I found the right place and hopped aboard. Even managed the correct money when asked so that’s a win in my books!
On arrival into town I stocked my bag with a croissant con jamón y queso (ham and cheese) and set off around town to spot the landmarks I’d set myself to explore. A couple of churches, the most of interest to me is the Igrexa de San Tomé Becket - a Catholic Church dedicated to Thomas A Becket.
Now those who know my nerdish leanings will know I love English history and this man was a major player during the reign of Henry II - anointed as the Archbishop of Canterbury by Henry, but loyal to the church, Thomas was not the malleable pawn Henry thought he would be. After one particularly annoying disagreement, Henry is said to have uttered “who will rid me of this turbulent priest”. Heard by four of his guard, this was interpreted as a sign to kill the archbishop and he was murdered, in his own church as he sought sanctuary. His martyrdom was pretty much guaranteed after that. Anyway…this is the only church dedicated to St Thomas in Galicia.
After giving directions to a lovely French woman and having a bit of a chat about the Camino (she finds the last 100km boring because she can walk in vineyards at home in the south of France), I started my walk to the promised waterfall. My only hope was that it actually was a waterfall and not a seasonal one that is empty after the snow melts.
Google maps had given me directions, but with 50m to go it directing me down a private road that had a very definite sign excluding anyone but “residentes”. So after a bit of investigation I found a separate path that lead me to the top of the falls (and a tunnel under the falls that looked muddy and wet, so I opted not to risk my sneakers). Not only were they were flowing, they were rumbling. Not only were there signposts showing me the way to the bottom, but also the surprise of the ruins of the old electricity factory (hydroelectric maybe) at the bottom. I don’t know how I missed that stack as I hiked in!
Many signs talking about the factory that I’ll need to translate but what a find, along with the waterfall, tunnel and a Roman bridge that was so overgrown it was difficult to spot.
All in all not a bad morning so far with 8km under the belt before 11! Although as I was hiking in the middle of nowhere I did think what a stupid thing I’d done going off and telling no one of my plans. I didn’t see anyone else on my travels and made sure to be very sure footed when I was walking because I couldn’t even remember the emergency number! Chalk that one up to experience and I’ll make sure I tell someone next time I go off script!
Only two more sleeps til I’m back in Santiago and then only one more and I’ll be back in Paris. The anticipation is growing!
